Posted 20 hours ago

Svbony SV105 Telescope Camera 1.25 Inches, Digital Color Astronomy Camera with USB2.0, Electronic Telescope Eyepiece for Beginners Planetary Lunar

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Put the CD into your laptop and follow the prompts to complete the installation. You can use other software like AstroDMx Capture if you please.

I ended up controlling the camera with SharpCap, it actually worked quite well and I did test a few tools for nailing focus (side-note: I actually make my own Bahtinov Mask for the EdgeHD8 so I actually was 99% in focus according to Sharpcap when I started). Playing with Sharpcap’s Focus Tools Q13:Can sv105 and sv205 be compatible with C mount lens? A13:incompatible,SV105 and SV205 camera without CS thread. We update the new User Manual. And remove the CD. Please don’t worry, let me tell you what in the CD: Electronic User Manual. SharpCap 3.0 software. There are many reasons to like the SVBONY SV105 planetary imaging camera. I like that it’s easy to use and set up. The images were also of considerable quality despite the meager price point.However, after you master the SharpCap and processing software to create decent photos, you can start looking into more expensive planetary cameras from ZWO . Q15:Is SV205 camera suitable for deep space photography? A15:The SV205 camera has only one second exposure time, which is not suitable for deep space photography. Flat-fields should be collected before the imaging session. They can then be used in future imaging sessions with the same camera and scope configuration. They will need to be replaced if, for example, more dust accumulates on the sensor. It should be stated here that one does not normally apply a flat-field correction to one of the flat-field images as we have done here; we have done this to show the dramatic effects of flat-field correction on pixel vignetting. Imagine the effect that such flat-field correction will have on lunar images showing similar pixel vignetting.

This is a screen grab of PHD2 working with the SV105 camera on a Celestron 70mm Travelscope. Obviously Polaris would make a good guide star. In this case I’ve selected HD5914, which at 6.5 magnitude is about as dim a star as PHD2 could probably guide on. While HD1685 (8.12 mag) is visible, it is too dim to guide on. For the astronomer, this represents an opportunity to capture flat fields. The telescope can be pointed at a uniform grey region of the sky and flat-field images captured. Even better, a piece of white plasticard can be taped in front of the telescope to act as an additional diffuser. If the plasticard diffuser is not used, it may be necessary to employ a neutral density filter to prevent the image from being saturated with light.In H-alpha would like to see the level of detail in proms I can see visually. As well as the details I can see in active regions. It will work with Windows 7, 8, and 10 without issues. But remember to use only the cable provided in the box. Using sharpcap 3.1 that came with the camera. I have used varying settings trying to get a better image. I am using a diagonal. I tried using it throughout the lunar eclipse both with and without the lunar filter. I would have thought this an idea time to get some kind of images but just shadowy screen was all I could accomplish. Should I be able to see something terrestrial with this thing?

Before dishing out for the ERF and Quark and all that; I would suggest you get a white light setup first, it's much cheaper to build, and will give you the same experience in terms of what resolution is possible, what image scale, etc, in your seeing conditions, if you image in red wavelength (610nm Baader for example, or any basic red imaging filter). It will be photosphere, but it will tell you how an HA system of the same aperture and image scale would perform in your seeing conditions. Super handy information to know before dishing out for expensive stuff. So with the moon and the power mate I was looking at specific regions, I’m not super familiar with the features of the moon except for the tyco crater… so I decided to try for a moasic of the entire lunar surface which actually turned out really well, except I missed to overlaps… but it makes my mosaic uniquely mine. 37MP Mosaic of the Moon using the SV105Finally for the end of the night I decided to try for Mars, I had never imaged mars before in detail (once I tried with my GH4 and Zenithstar 80ED before I had barlows and powermates and all i got was a red dot. This attempt was significantly better, I could even see surface features and what not. Mars – SV105 + 5x Power Mate Starting up AstroDMx Capture for Windows and applying real-time flat-field correction to the captured data. While testing, I found that the images had reverse vignetting. Reverse vignetting is when the edges of your image have some glow or a slightly different hue from the rest of the photo. Learning about the best timing for different objects also helps. For example, you’ll get crispier pictures of some objects around the first light (dawn) during specific periods of the year. Its limitations are quite obvious but not surprising. It does the job and meets expectations. That’s more than enough for someone testing the waters of planetary imaging.

SVBONY SV105 camera uses USB2.0 type, so make sure you have at least USB2.0 available. Of course, it will also work in USB 3.0 and USB 3.1 slots. Necessary software for SVBONY SV105 Camera From Steve's lunar and planetary pictures, it seems that (although obvious) the performance of the SV105 is not on par with the real planetary cameras like the IMX224 based ones or even the AR130 based ones. Even the SVBONY T7 W2568A (an ASI120 clone a.k.a. "Datyson T7") provides much, much better images (Steve also tried that one). The SVBONY SV105 is a bit light-sensitive, more than a webcam, and I’ve had some friends confirm this. Q4:When using sv105/205, what if the USB interface of the cable does not match the interface of the imaging device (mobile phone)? A4:You can connect to your mobile phone by purchasing an appropriate OTG adapter cable. Then: using it in the telescope, try at daytime with a terrestrial object that is at least a few dozen meters away. When I tried the SV105 with my guidescope I first used my car as a target on daylight to figure out the focusing distance.Here is the firmware of SV105 camera. This version firmware only fix the problem of SV105 that slow frame rate at 0.5-1.5 fps. (Note: If you don’t have this problem, please don’t upgrade your SV105 camera). It is important to adjust the exposure time, color saturation, and FPS. All will depend on the seeing conditions and the object you are trying to capture. Enter the sharpcap software, then [Options]-[Video Capture Filter]-[Default], the default data will be normal and correct. AstroDMx Capture can apply the flat-filed corrections in real time so that the video stream and saved data are all flat-field corrected. (As an aside, the same is true of dark-frames if they are required). So if anyone uses a telescope with 400mm focal length work together with SV105, don’t put SV105 whole adapter barrel into the diagonal. Try it, please! By the way, If anyone have a telescope with a 300mm focal length. Maybe you need a extend tube ( W2761 ) to connect the SV105 camera. then the camera could focus and capture the clear image.

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